I have officially lost my mind, given control over my body to diary and sugar, and turned into an ice cream monster. Just a few weeks ago I was saying how I’m not an ice cream eater, I don’t have a sweet tooth, I don’t eat dessert, blah blah blah. Well, that was me then. This week I left that former self behind and moved to this fairy land where I eat helado practically everyday. I’m no longer satisfied with a small cone. No. Now I am that person who orders a cuarto, that’s 1/4 kilo, 250 grams of ice cream, just for me. Apparently in Argentina, ordering a cuarto is not all that uncommon and women do that even when they’re not trying to numb the pain of being dumped by a boyfriend or something equally cliché. There are plenty of others besides me who get their own cuarto and I often see people going home with a kilo or two of ice cream.
I honestly hope that I don’t become a closet binge ice cream eater but check back with me next week, as I may have a story about how I had a kilo of ice cream delivered to my apartment.
It all started on Monday when I got caught in the rain and had to wait it out under an awning in Las Cañitas. I was going to treat myself to a cone at La Crémerie on Baez but settled for a minicucu at Freddo at Jumbo on my was home. A tiny little minicucu (a miniature waffle cone) of dulce de leche ice cream for 5 pesos (~$1.15USD). No harm, no foul.
I’ve had at least half a dozen people tell me that the best dulce de leche ice cream can be found at Chungo. The one near my apartment is closed for renovations so after a healthy salad lunch on Tuesday at Buenos Aires Verde I tipped the balance to the other side by going to Chungo in Palermo Hollywood. I got a vaso chico (a small wafer cone for 19 pesos) with two flavors, dulce de leche granizado (it was excellent) and chocolate del bosque (dark chocolate with salsa de frutos del bosque). I made the mistake of taking my ice cream out on the road instead of sitting down inside where the AC was on full blast. Within a block or so, everything was dripping down and I didn’t get to properly taste the ice cream because I was furiously doing damage control. This means I have to return to Chungo for another taste test.
And that, should have been the end of my Heladeria de la Semana entry, period. But no. Things escalated on Wednesday. I had a perfectly lovely afternoon at the Eduardo Sivori museum and a civilized stroll through the rose garden at the park. I needed to go to the Citi bank ATM so I was walking along Libertador when my legs, without my permission, carried me right through the glass walls and doors of Volta and I heard myself ask the nice man behind the counter for a cuarto of dulce de leche. I watched him stuff a small white styrofoam box with heaps of ice cream and weigh it. A bit more got added to the container and then I heard him ask me how many spoons I wanted. I sheepishly looked up at him and said… just one please.
Volta was running a special where you can get a cuarto of dulce de leche for 12 pesos ($2.75 USD), so you see? I was being economical. But I found Volta’s dulce de leche a bit too sweet and honestly, a cuarto was too much for me. I did my best but I couldn’t finish the whole thing. I guess I need more training and the key here, I think, is to get three different flavors instead of just one. I’m learning.
And then came Thursday where under the influence of Malbec I marched into my neighborhood Tufic and got a cucurocho (crunchy waffle cone). It was dinner and it was good.
I tell you, this ice cream habit of mine is going to cost me here in Buenos Aires, both financially and in terms of health. In fact, I know I’m rounder than when I first arrived. Now I’m on a self-imposed ice cream ban… until next week. What if I stuck to the natural fruit ones where they don’t use sugar and cream? Like I said, I’ve lost my mind!
Chungo: Humboldt y Costa Rica in Palermo Hollywood (the one in Palermo Soho on Gurruchaga is closed for renovations) and a few other locations in Buenos Aires including Belgrano and Núñez
Un’Altra Volta: In Palermo- Libertador 3060 near Lafinur and Coronel Diaz y Cerviño; a few in Recoleta (Callao y Melo, Quintana y Ayacucho, Santa Fe near Callao), and one in Belgrano on Echeverría near Vuelta de Obligado