My Buenos Aires Good Eats and Drinks

This is a list of places I visited in Buenos Aires in the last 16 weeks.  More updates to come…

Click on the names to see the write up from my visit; ice cream shops and bars are at the end.

1810 Cocina Regional: Great empanadas and locro, corner of Guatemala and Julián Alvarez in Palermo (two other locations in Centro and Belgrano) www.1810cocinaregional.com

Arevalito: Great little hole in the wall vegetarian place.  Arévalo 1478 near Cabrera, Palermo Hollywood.  Two visits, once at lunch and once for dinner.  Awesome!

Artemisia: Great vegetarian restaurant, Gorriti 5996 (@Arevalo) in Palermo Hollywood and Cabrera 3877 in Palermo Soho.  Would definitely eat there again.  www.artemisianatural.com.ar

Asia Oriental Snack Bar: On Mendoza off of Arribeño in Barrio Chino (Belgrano).  Inside the Asia Oriental grocery store, great little spot for stir fried noodles.  They have spicy pepper oil in big pots to spoon all over your food.

Azema Exotic Bistró: Eclectic (French & Asian), great friendly service, colorful interior.  Recommended.  Angel Carranza 1875 (near Costa Rica), Palermo Hollywood

Bangalore Pub & Curry House: British style pub and Indian curry.  Had pumpkin curry there twice, inconsistent but I’d be willing to try it again.  Humboldt 1416 (@ Niceto Vega), Palermo Hollywood (opens at 17:00)

Báraka: Yummy salads, friendly staff.  Gurruchaga 1450 at Cabrera in Palermo Soho.  www.barakarestaurant.com.ar

BardePán: My favorite café with delicious medialunas, toast, coffee, garden, backroom, friendly service.  Would return over and over again.  Roberto is the best.  Their “integralissimo” bread is amazing.  Corner of Delgado and Arredondo in Chacarita behind La Prometida.

Bio: Organic vegetarian in Palermo Hollywood.  Cute little spot, outdoor seating, good veggie menu.  Corner of Humboldt and Guatemala.  www.biorestaurant.com.ar

Broccolino: Good Italian restaurant in Centro, wouldn’t necessarily go back again.. but decent food and friendly service.

Buen Suspiro: This place is in Uruguay…  What they lack in quality they make up for it in quantity and ambiance.  On Calle de los Suspiros, Colonia del Sacramento, UruguayWould check out Lentas Maravillas next time.  www.buensuspiro.com

Buenos Aires Verde: Raw vegetarian on Gorriti 5657 (between Honduras and Bonpland), like Kensho better.  Their raw pizza was gigantic; terrible organic torrontés.  www.bsasverde.com

Café San Juan: What’s not to love…  good food, good ambiance, good service, and a really HOT chef.  Make reservations or go early.  Leandro Cristóbal rocks!  San Juan 450 (between Bolívar and Defensa), San Telmo.

Café Tortoni: Historic café to visit once.  Overpriced everything.  Avenida de Mayo 825, Centro.

Café Victoria: In front of the Recoleta Cemetery.  Attentive service and nice outdoor seating area, but mediocre food.  If I HAVE to eat around there, I’d choose La Biela instead but really I would just walk a few more blocks and go elsewhere.

Cabaña Las Lilas: Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 516 in Puerto Madero; it’s expensive for Buenos Aires, lots of tourists.  www.laslilas.com

Las Cabras: It’s all about the mixed grill, parrilla completa big enough for three people to share.  Several locations including Las Cabritas.  In Palermo Hollywood (FitzRoy and El Salvador), Las Cañitas, and Recoleta.

La Cabrera & La Cabrera Norte: Two locations across a street from each other in Palermo Soho (José Antonio Cabrera 5099 & 5027); arguably the most popular parrilla in Buenos Aires.  Love the waiters (¡hola Marcelo!) and the food.  www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar

CampoBravo: Two locations, one in Palermo Hollywood (Honduras 5600 @ Fitz Roy) and another in Las Cañitas (Baez 292 @ Arevalo); really popular and packed with customers until late at night, fun and energetic.  www.campobravo.com.ar

Casa Mun: Closed-door restaurant.  Address provided upon reservation; lively and fun dinner party in Palermo Soho with mediocre food.  www.casamun.com

Casa SaltShaker: Closed-door restaurant.  Address provided upon reservation; eclectic cuisine based on what the chef wants to make that week.  Small (10 guests) dine together.  Can’t say I’d return…   www.casasaltshaker.com

Caseros: A lovely little spot on Caseros (between Bolívar and Defensa) in San Telmo.  Great food, cute ambiance, friendly service.

El Club de la Milanesa: A chain restaurant found all over Buenos Aires.  Interesting and extensive menu of milanesas but can’t say I’d return.

Cocina Sunae: Closed-door restaurant.  Address provided upon reservation; a nice, quiet four course meal.  Good Southeast Asian food out of her home, a rare spicy treat in Buenos Aireswww.cocinasunae.com

Como en Casa: A cute spot in Recoleta for afternoon merienda.  Corner of Laprida and French.

El Cuartito: Yummy pizza!  Talcahuano 937 (between Alvear and Paraguay), Recoleta.

Cucina Paradiso: ADORABLE Italian in Palermo Hollywood, not open for dinner but definitely worth stopping by for an Aperol Sprintz and some picadas before 20:00 or for lunch.

Croque Madame: Lovely outdoor space and good salads, next to one of the most beautiful buildings in Buenos Aires at Mueso Nacional de Arte Decorativo on Libertador.

Don Julio: A legendary spot in Palermo Soho, always packed with happy customers.  Extensive wine list can be viewed on iPads.  Corner of Gurruchaga & Guatemala.  I love it there.

La Dorita: Choricampo!  There are better parrillas in BA but I love their version of choripán, choricampowww.parrillaladorita.com.ar

L’épi: French bakery on Roseti in Colegiales and on Montevideo in Recoleta.  So cute but disappointing croissants.  Will return to try their breads.  www.lepi.com.ar

La Fabrica del Taco: Gorriti 5062 (@ Thames) in Palermo Soho; not the best tacos in the world but sit in the back garden, order a couple of Tacos Al Pastor, and wash them down with a cold Michelanawww.lafabricadeltaco.com

El Francés: Adorable French bistro in Palermo Soho (Gorriti 5099 at Thames).  Well priced lunch menu, relaxing dinner, a great Colombian waitress, and amazing French style jazz cover of American pop songs.  www.elfrancesbistro.com.ar

Fundación Proa Café: Nice place for a cup of coffee or tea, with a great view of La Boca.  www.proa.org

Green Bamboo: Vietnamese in Palermo Hollywood (Costa Rica and Carranza).  Dark room, decent spicy food.

Hierbabuena: Casero 454, near Defensa in San Telmo.  Really cute.. good natural juices but I thought mine was too sweet…  Vegetarian!

Home: Boutique hotel in Palermo Hollywood.  Pretty good brunch, wonderful staff/service, good spot for pre-dinner drinks.

Kensho: Wonderful raw vegetarian restaurant in Palermo Hollywood (on El Salvador between Bonpland and Carranza).  AWESOME!  www.kensho.com.ar

Koh Lanta: Thai in Palermo Soho (Gorriti 4647).  Modern decor, cool rooftop, terrible curry.  Wouldn’t go back.

LATTEnTE: Run by a friendly Colombian guy, Daniel, a great coffee place in Recoleta.  Corner of Ayacucho and Arenal, look below to the basement.

McDonald’s: The Kosher McDonald’s in Abasto Shopping Center.  Worth a visit.

Magdalena’s Party: American bar and restaurant on Thames in Palermo Soho.  Happy hour from noon to midnight.  Check out the weekend brunch and the POKE pop-up restaurant on Wednesday.

Malvón: Adorable café in Villa Crespo (Serrano 789, off of Aguirre).  Love the decor and the back garden, friendly service.  Fantastic brunch.

Max’s Supper Club: Closed-door/Pop-up restaurant.  Fantastically fun evening.

Miranda: A popular parrilla in Palermo Hollywood (Costa Rica & FitzRoy) with a great lunch time special (~$14USD for steak + side + glass of wine + coffee).  Visited twice but didn’t the steaks were that great.  My friends love their lomo.  www.parrillamiranda.com

Los Molinos: Neighborhood panadería on Las Heras.

Museo Evita: Great outdoor terrace restaurant with a nice menu.  Liked their salad and the sorrentinosJ.M.Gutiérrez 3926 (Lafinur and Gutiérrez), Palermo.

Musseta: A cute little bistro on the corner of Billinghurst and Tucumán in Almagro.  Thursday night around 21:30 an awesome modern tango band plays (cuarteto de Julio Coviello).

Natural Deli: A healthy food, juices, and products offered in three different locations throughout Buenos Aires.  Their Las Cañita‘s location has Buena Onda yoga studio on the second floor.  Yummy yummy.  www.natural-deli.com

L’Orangerie: For English high tea. Alvear Palace Hotel, on Alvear in Recoleta.  Worth doing once but prepare for a ton of food…  best shared with someone.

Olsen: Scandinavian in Argentina!  Go for the beautiful space.  Drinks, brunch, etc.  Gorgeous ambiance.  Palermo Hollywood.

Osaka: Peruvian-Japanese fusion in Palermo Hollywood.  Trendy chic crowd, dark stylish restaurant.  Visit once for the experience but the food isn’t amazing, especially if you’re used to great quality sushi & Japanese food.

Parrilla Peña: A small parrilla with great steaks.  Great for people watching (lots of old timers in suits), waiters in white coats, quite friendly…  Rodriguez Peña 682 near Viamonte.

El Peruanito Ray: #1 most popular delivery place from BA delivery service in 2011.  Two most popular items on the menu are the grilled chicken sandwich and the lechón sandwich.  Their salsa picante and homemade mayonaise make everything better.  FitzRoy 2299

Las Pizarras Bistro: My neighborhood go-to restaurant.  Small, intimate, and casual bistro with an imaginative menu.  Excellent.  Thames 2296, Palermo Soho.

El Preferido: Rabas, rabas, rabas!  The best fried squid in town.  Jorge L. Borges 2108 (corner of Borges and Guatemala) in Palermo Soho.

Primavera Trujillana: Yummy Peruvian.  Franklin D. Roosevelt 1627 (between Montañeses and Arribeños), Belgrano.  www.saboresperuanos.com.ar/primavera

POKE: Pop-up restaurant at Magdalena’s Party on Wednesdays in Palermo Soho (Thames 1795, corner of Thames and Costa Rica).  Check it out for street food inspired Asian goodness.  Good food, nice chef, friendly vibe.  www.poke-restaurant.com

El Rey de Chori: Woo hoo!  Love this parking lot choripan place in San Telmo.  Walk down Defensa and it’s the first parking lot you see on the right.  They have a sign.

Romario: Various locations, for pizzas and empanadas.  You can also order online and get delivery from guys who zip around on roller blades.   www.romario.com.ar

Santa Paula: Excellent medialunas!  Scalabrini Ortiz near Cerviño.

Sarkis: Delicious Armenian-Mediterranean in Villa Crespo.  REALLY popular.  Had a celebrity sighting there on one Tuesday night…  Ricardo Darín!   Great service from Maximilian, the waiter.  On Thames.

Sirop Folie: Wonderful American style brunch at a killer price (~$45USD for two), down a little alley on Vincente Lopez in Recoleta.  Slow and not so attentive service, but still worth it.

Spring: Vegetarian tenedor libre (all you can eat) on Guatemala between Malabia and Armenia, Palermo Soho.

Sudestada: Great lunch deals!  Spicy Southeast Asian food.  Totally worth a visit.  www.sudestadabuenosaires.com

Tandoor  Laprida 1293 near Charcas, Barrio Norte.  Good Indian food for BA (not amazing) but really quite civilized.  Been there often enough for the waitress to know which bottle of malbec I drink.  yikes?  www.tandoor.com.ar

Tea Connection: Good healthy options for salads, sandwiches, and drinks.  Various locations in Buenos Aires; I frequented the one in Recoleta on Uriburu, also like the one on Montevideo and in Palermo Chico (on Cerviño).  Great lunch time set menu.  www.teaconnection.com.ar

Tegui: Great modern Argentine food in a cool setting.  Loved the 8 course degustación menu with 3 glasses of wine.  Gorgeous decor with an open kitchen, graffiti covered entrance. Costa Rica 5852 (near Carranza), Palermo Hollywood

El Trapiche: Neighborhood parrilla in Palermo Hollywood (Paraguay 5099 @ Humboldt).  Bright florescent lights but thoroughly enjoyable meal with a giant ice cream with fresh fruits to seal the deal.

Voulez Bar: Busy café and bakery in Palermo Chico (Cerviño 3802 at Republica Arabe Siria).  Nice for people watching, great outdoor seating area.  www.voulezbar.com.ar


HELADO: Ice Cream

Chungo: Best dulce de leche ice cream in my opinion; Humboldt y Costa Rica in Palermo Hollywood and Gurruchaga y  in Palermo Soho.

Dylan: Unbelievable flavor called chocolate patagónico.  San Telmo

Freddo: All over Buenos Aires.  I will always remember their minicucus.

Jauja: LOVE this ice cream shop from Patagonia.  Only two locations in Buenos Aires.

Nonna Bianca: Why go to Freddo on Defensa when you can walk down 10 more steps and have Nonna Bianca?  In San Telmo.

Persicco: A chain ice cream shop.  Their banana split flavor was awesome.  On Gurruchaga in Palermo Soho and other locations in Buenos Aires.

Tufic: Great service, good ice cream.  Corner of Guatemala and Armenia, Palermo Soho.

Volta: Dulce de leche was a bit too sweet for me but still excellent ice cream overall, various locations in Buenos Aires.

 

BARS

Antares: Artisanal beers on tap, offers 2X1 happy hour

Bangalore Pub & Curry House: Opens early!  Humboldt 1416 (@ Niceto Vega), Palermo Hollywood (opens at 17:00)

Bar 878 (Ocho7Ocho): Thames 878 (@ Loyola), Villa Crespo, Buenos Aires; my favorite bar in Buenos Aires.  It’s quiet, dark, comfortable, and feels like a little secret.  Opens at 20:00 and runs a 2X1 Happy Hour until 21:00.  Good cocktails.  Really slow service but you’re not in a rush, right?   www.878bar.com.ar

Breoghan Brew Pub: On San Lorenzo (Bolívar) between Chile and Independencia.  A jazz quartet plays outside on Sundays.

Frank’s: Arévalo 1445, Palermo Hollywood, feels a bit like a PDT copycat (PDT, a speakeasy in NYC) with the phone booth but still a fun experience with passwords that change each week.

Hatrick: Only gone once for an Inter Nation event, nice enough..  cool rooftop.   Honduras 5549, between Homboldt and FitzRoy in Palermo Hollywood.

Magdalena’s Party: Thames, Palermo Soho.  12 to 12 happy hour.

Mira Vida Soho Hotel Wine Bar: Darregueyra 2050 (@ Soler), Palermo Soho; cute little boutique hotel with an equally adorable wine bar.  Indoor & outdoor seating, very friendly English speaking staff.  www.miravidasoho.com

Post Street Bar: on Thames in Palermo Soho.  Graffiti art lover’s dream.  Hollywood in Cambodia art gallery in the back, cool rooftop.

Tabla Negra: Honduras 5750 (between Carranza and Bonpland), Palermo Hollywood.  A pretty bar where you can sit on high stools outside. 

Tazz: In Plaza Serrano, not exactly where I would hang out regularly…  young crowd, can sit outside.


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